day 6 on to the Nullarbor Plain
After brekkie at Scott Bay, we went for a swim in crystal clear, aquamarine waters, with sand white and fine. The beach stretched for miles and we were the only people in sight. It was glorious.
Given the beauty of the shrubs and birds, the Major Mitchell’s and a cute little honeyeater that often sat alongside our setup, Jeremy started shooting for the Outback Project. He found some intricate elements of the landscape to photograph, this time the local glassswort, samphire and boobiala species of shrubs growing behind the dune. These provide valuable habitat for birds and reptiles, and, as with the Flinders, echo the colours of the landscape. Grey and sage green and ruby pink.
Also of note were the number of bees both at Mexican Hat and here at Scott Bay. Exploring everywhere, seeming to be on the hunt for water, they congregated wherever there was moisture: water bottles lids, handwashing station, cold droplets on defrosting food. I’m not sure if they are the native variety but I enjoyed having them around.
We wanted to get to the Head of Bight, renowned Southern Right Whale watching spot between May and October and the start of the Bunda Cliffs, the Indian Ocean cliff faces that this region is known for. Sheer drops of 100m, the edge of a continent. Let’s face it, Bondi Beach is also technically the edge of the continent but somehow it just isn’t the same.
The shoot took a little while and by the time we arrived at the gate to the Head of Bight, it was closed. We set up camp here at another free camp spot, Whitewell Tank Camping, more of a car park than a camp site. We assessed the howling wind and slipped into the eddy of the only structure in the site, a disused building.
Dinner: lamb ragù with veggies, as we had spuds to use before the border. It was very yummy. We enjoyed a glass or two of Moët here too, a Christmas gift from a student last year. Thanks KRB!
We met a couple of characters: Dave, travelling in an old school bus converted into a camper, with his partner Justine, and Lorraine, a former tour guide and bus driver in her Winnebago with her husband Bob. Both Dave and Lorraine, who chatted with us separately, were warm and effusive, with tips for our journey west. We gave Dave some of our honey as we couldn’t take it into WA.
As we headed off to bed, we were high enough in the tent on top of our trailer to watch the lights of the road trains hurtle along the Eyre Hwy. Quite the sight.
